Until July 2007, we had opportunities to use helicopters (Russian KAMOV and BELL 212) in order to transfer climbers to Carstensz BC at 4,050 M. Thru this access, we ran succesfully 11 CP Expeditions . However due to instable security situtaion in one region in Papua including at where the helicopter used to stop for refuel and re-embark passengers is no longer safe for foreign and the helicopter to travel, therefore we no longer use this option, unless the cost to use the helicopter is raising significantly.
Another available access which considered as the EASIEST and the MOST EFFECTIVE ways to reach the mountain area of Carstensz Pyramid is by an overland journey thru Freeport Mine. However it is known that the acces thru this route is very difficult to get due to complicated procedures and strict regulation of the mine authorities. Also known this access is NO LONGER available at these present days following at recently there was a group of 6 foreign climbers and 3 local guides forced to cross the mine ilegaly and were got caught due to ilegal.
While going with heicopetr is very expensive especially nowdays after the significant increasing of the worl's gas prices, therefore since then our Carstensz Pyramid Expedition will use the classic route which is via IIlaga Village, with total duration of 18 - 20 Days which involved at least 10 - 12 Days of treking to reach the BC and return to the village for our way out. Alternative way is via Sugapa Village which also requires similar trip duration.
Carstensz Pyramid is a large limestone, we climb the mountain via its north face which joins the summit ridge before proceeding to the summit. Most of the climb is scrambling, but there are technical sections up to 5.8 in difficulty. We will fix ropes on much of the route to gain the summit ridge, which also direct us on the descent. The summit ridge is knife-edged ridge with some really interesting climbing. You'll need to have some rock climbing experience prior to coming to Carstensz Pyramid.
Further regarding the climb, there are 2 parts of the climb, first we will climb up thru the north face of Carstensz Wall thru normal route where we have fixed many ropes for the ascend and descend ways. The climb on the north wall of CP is about 500 M where required jummaring up. Free climb is not recommended in term of safety and using a jummar is an obligatory. Once we are moving onward on summit ridge, we will once crossing the huge gap on tyrolean to speeds up the ascent to the summit of Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 M).
